This was my sixth visit to Africa and I cannot say how excited I was to be going back. The fam trip was only decided two weeks before I was to fly out but I find last minute trips sometimes are the best. A good friend of mine, Stephanie, who is an ESL teacher, was able to join me and this was her first trip to Africa. I was thrilled to show off Africa to her so that she can see why I have a passion for it and love it so much.

Now that I have spent a bit of time in Uganda I have realized that the country is marketed completely wrong.  When most people think of Uganda they just think of visiting the gorillas and do not realize there is so much more to see and do.  People could easily spend 14 days travelling around exploring the country and within that 14 days they could visit the Murchison Falls area, where not only will you see the beautiful Falls, but you can also go on game drives.  Visit the town of Jinja for some white water rafting, bungee jumping and kayaking, then head to Ngamba Island for the day or overnight to visit the chimpanzee sanctuary.  Visit Kibale National Park and the Chamburu Gorge for some chimpanzee trekking, or head to Queen Elizabeth National Park for game drives and a boat cruise down the Kazinga Channel where the shore is full of animals.  Ishasha Park is famous for its tree climbing lions, and Lake Mburu is another great place for wildlife viewing.  If you are looking for a good hike Mount Elgon and the Rwenzori Mountains is the perfect place to visit.  And of course you have Bwindi Impenetrable Forest where you can go gorilla trekking.  The countryside is the most beautiful I have seen with lush green rolling hills, tea plantations, farms, Crater Lakes and villages.  Every turn you take you are awed by the scenery.

I decided to fly with Continental Airlines and Ethiopian Airlines because the fare was so much less expensive, but of course there is a reason why is it less expensive.  The routing is a painstaking journey from Vancouver via Houston (4hr 30 min), to Dubai (14hr 40min) with an overnight in Dubai, and then on to Addis Ababa (1hr 10 min), continuing on to Entebbe (2hrs).  On the way home it worked out to 18hrs from Dubai to Houston, the longest I have ever been on a plane. 

February 2

We arrived into Dubai at 7:00pm where I thought we would need to purchase a visa but later found out it was not necessary.  We collected our bags and Samer, from South Sinai Dubai, was waiting to meet us with a rose for each of us.  We met up with Mohammed who drove us to the Arabian Park Hotel, located about 15 minutes from the airport.  The hotel is considered to be a “3 star”, but really it felt more like a “4 star”.  The rooms were very clean with complimentary tea and coffee, hairdryers, TV, all the major conveniences.  The breakfast buffet was fantastic with a huge selection to choose from.

We checked in and changed a bit of money into local currency for tips and drinks at the airport the next morning, etc.  Steph and I decided that since it was still early evening we would have Mohammed take us on a two-hour night city tour of Dubai.  Mohammed was very proud of all the high rises and his city, taking us to see Buij Al Arab, unofficially known as the world’s only “7 star” hotel.  Here we met 3 men dressed in gleaming white ankle length robes called Dishdasha.  They looked stunning, so after talking to them for a minute we got some pictures together and hopped back into the car for a ride to visit the Creek area.

The Creek was beautiful at night, with the reflection of the boats and lights from the city.  There were some men in very old wood boats paddling along the water, so we waved and yelled hello to them.  I would love to see this area of Dubai in the day.  Since the shopping district was closing, after visiting the Creek area we went back to our hotel for the night.

February 3

Since we were transferred to the airport before the breakfast buffet was open, the hotel did a packed breakfast for us.  We were now on our way to Entebbe.

I love the feeling of arriving into Africa, getting off the plane and walking to the main terminal.  As soon as I step off the plane I inhale and just bask in the sunshine and smell of Africa.  What I was not prepared for was how differently this trip would affect me from the others I have done. 

When I arrived at Entebbe airport we were all ushered to the right to fill out the landing forms, followed by waiting in line on the far left to get our visas.  The visas are US$50.00 cash only, and it was a very quick and easy process.

Next Steph and I gathered up all our bags and headed out into the sea of people to find our Wild Frontiers driver guide.  Joseph was there waiting for us with a smiling face, ready to take on the task of being our guide for the next 10 days.  I found out that there were supposed to be 6 of us on this trip but 3 people cancelled at the last minute due to weather in Europe, and one gentleman from Florida got stuck in London due to snow.  He was to meet up with us in a couple of days.  However, he met up with us at Mweya Lodge; the next day did the Chamburu Gorge chimp trek, broke his leg and was air lifted home.  So that left the two of us by ourselves for the entire trip.

We decided to change some money at the airport from American dollars to Ugandan shillings.  I found out that the higher the note, i.e. US$100.00, the better the exchange rate you get.  So if you want to change money, bring US100.00 bills all post 2004.  The rate is about $1900.00 shillings to US$1.00.  I found tipping in American dollars fine but small items like drinks, even souvenirs, are better paid in shillings.  You can pay everything in American dollars but with the small bills the locals do not get a very good exchange rate, so sometimes it is better to pay in shillings.

As we walked out of the airport and to the vehicle I had this overwhelming feeling of being home, it felt so exhilarating.  I honestly felt like I was returning home from a long journey away.  Joseph took us to our hotel for the next two nights, the Lake Victoria Hotel.  The hotel was built in the early forties and was the first hotel built.  Since the forties the hotel has undergone three renovations.  There are 120 rooms with two stories.  Off to the left of the hotel they are currently building some suites.  When you drive up to the hotel there is a huge fountain with no running water.  It is probably beautiful when it is running but I thought it looked like a bit on an eye sore.  I was told it is too expensive to run.

The hotel is off the main road so I found it very quiet.  There is a lot of lawn space and the garden is very lovely.  In the middle of the hotel you can go out to a courtyard area where there is a pond with turtles and an array of birds.  I found the rooms to be spacious and complete with all the amenities you need.  There is a massive pool with a three level diving board, pool bar and patio with shaded cabanas.   A 18-hole golf course is right beside the hotel.  The food was excellent.  We had dinner out on the patio and tried the Indian cuisine, which was excellent.  The buffet breakfast had a lot of selection with eggs, fresh fruit, pastry, sausages, beans, toast etc.  Dinner was around 26,000 shillings each.

From the airport to Entebbe town is only about 10-15 minutes but from the airport to Kampala is around 45-60 minutes or longer.  Traffic in Kampala is horrible and very congested.  Kampala is a major city, whereas Entebbe feels more like a small town surrounded by the beautiful Lake Victoria.  I would definitely prefer clients to stay in Entebbe where you can walk about the lake, relax on the beautiful sand and feel safe walking around this very friendly town.  In Kampala your views are of the city and its huge buildings and construction, along with the noise of the city traffic.  If you are having dinner in Kampala, there is a great restaurant called Le Chateau, which I highly recommend trying out.

I wanted to comment on the Wild Frontiers vehicle because this is one of the many reasons Wild Frontiers is a top notch tour operator.  The vehicles are Toyota 4x4s with air conditioning and battery charge plugs.  There are actual plugs in the vehicle or you can get one of those cigarette lighter converters and plug that into the cigarette light outlet and charge you battery that way, which is what I did.  There is also a fridge in the vehicle so you have cold drinks.  The seats are 2 in the front and 3 rows of 2.  The roof pops up in the front seat and the back.  I have not seen a vehicle with a roof hatch in the front before.  It is recommended to bring just one soft sided bag per person.

February 4

This morning Joseph met us to take us to the boat launch so we could head over to Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary.  You can do a day trip, overnight trips (this is where we spent our last night), a forest walk with chimpanzees and view the chimps from a viewing deck while they are being fed.  The 45 minute boat ride on Lake Victoria was beautiful.  The local fishermen were out in their old wooden boats trying to catch fish and the scenery was breathtaking.

As soon you arrive the first thing you hear are the sounds of thousands of birds at work.  After a briefing about the island and chimps we weretaken to the viewing platform.  It was really amazing to watch the chimps groom themselves and each other, run around and play – they are very human like. A caregiver then comes and gives each chimp some fruit. Some chimps were very impatient and would come up to the fence stomping their feet and holding out their hands for the food.  These chimps were not given any food when they did this; it really reminded me of children in a way.

While at the viewing deck there were two ladies who had done the morning walk with the chimps.  One of them said it was totally amazing because the chimps literally hang off you and walk with you.  There are a lot of vaccinations you have to have before being able to do this walk so you need to get the list before you travel to make sure you are up to date.  I heard they might be phasing this walk out.  You must stay overnight on the island to be able to partake in this activity because you go out early in the morning.  

After our time with the chimps we took the boat ride back to Entebbe for a nice relaxing dinner at the hotel.

February 5

This morning we were off to Ndali Lodge where we spent the night.  As we drove through the countryside it was the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen.  I looked out the window and watched the workers in the tea plantations with their baskets on their backs picking tea.  Every corner was lush, green, rolling hills and the beauty was awe-inspiring.  Every once in a while one of us would yell “stop the vehicle”, and Joseph would pull over so we could get out and take it all in.  We would pass people pushing their bikes loaded full of matokas, pushing for miles heading to the markets.  We would pass village after village of kids running to the roads yelling “how are you, how are you.”  We would see the women out with small washing buckets doing laundry every morning, and people walking to work.  Everyone was always socializing, laughing, going about their day, which was fascinating to watch.

The road from Kampala to Fort Portal is paved and I must say I have never been to Africa and seen road construction being done.  It was so nice to see the roads being graded and new roads being built.  There is a continuous flow of huge semi-trucks hauling goods from Uganda to the Congo.  The downside to these beautiful, pothole-free graded roads is that with one downpour of rain the trucks break up the roads and the roads are ruined again.  I have been to both Kenya and Tanzania and I think the road system is better in Uganda.

We stopped for lunch in Fort Portal and continued for a sight inspection at Mountains of the Moon Hotel located in Fort Portal.  The hotel is about a 1 hour drive to Kibale Forest so if the hotels around Kibale are full we would use this property.  The hotel was just renovated in April 2008 and looks lovely; great for business people, and since there is a golf course nearby good for golfing clients.  I found the hotel a bit impersonal with the large screen TV’s, big conference rooms and a bar with dancing.  There are currently 33 rooms, but another 30 rooms are going to be added at the end of 2009.  The grounds have beautiful, green manicured lawns.  The rooms have all the modern amenities and are beautiful. I found the bathrooms to be average but clean.  There is a health club and spa with aerobic teachers, steam room and sauna, and pool.

We then headed over to Fort Hotel, which has a quaint guesthouse/BB feeling.  The hotel is 3 years old and has 10 rooms.  The lobby and dining area are very small, but the grounds are beautifully manicured, looking out to the Rwenzori Mountains.  The restaurant and bar only have 3 tables with some outdoor seating.  A pool is in the plans and there is a pool table.  The first building has 7 rooms and the second building has 2 rooms plus a suite.  The second building has a large lounge with fireplace and a full kitchen with dining room, ideal for families.  If clients are looking for a smaller place that is more personal, quiet and remote-feeling, this is the better option over Mountain of the Moon Hotel.

Our next stop was a small school called Bigodi with about 64-67 children.  I had brought with me notebooks, scissors, pencils, pens, crayons, paper, geometry sets, pencil cases, erasers and rulers, etc.  Since the school was small we handed each kid a notebook, pencil and pencil case and the school was given everything else.  When we arrived the kids all came out and sang to us, which was so emotional for me.  The school was a twig frame with no real walls and a dirt floor.  The children were using newspaper for their notebooks, so to have their own notebook was great.  With Steph being a teacher she was astounded at the school building but you know you can teach kids anywhere as long as they are learning.  Just a while back the school was actually teaching under a tree and the local women in the community built what is there today.

If anyone ever asks me what I can bring to Africa with me, I always say school supplies.  The supplies can get heavy in your luggage, so you can always set aside money and buy the supplies when you arrive. 

After our school visit we did a sight inspection at Primates Lodge, which is two years old.  There are 8 tents (there are new tents so request these), 7 cottages, and 1 Sky tree house.  This property is right in the forest and you walk right through a path in the forest to get to your rooms.  For a luxury tented experience this is a great place.  The modern conveniences of a telephone, TV, mini bar, hair dryer, and air conditioning will not be found here.  Instead you have solar power (24hrs) and an outside sitting area to enjoy the canopy forest and all the sounds of nature. 

The tents are built on a solid platform with thatched roof and wood flooring.  The walls and ceiling are canvas with a canvas wall that separates the room from the bathroom.  The bathrooms have an open shower with flush toilets and an above-sink basin.  There is an outside sitting area with 4 chairs and tables built on a solid platform, surrounded by forest.  A third bed can be put in the tents if needed.  The cottages have a stone veranda with camp chairs and a bamboo-type fence around the patio.  Inside, the floor is stone and the roof is wood with a rustic stone bathroom.  The temperature is nice and cool inside due to all the stone.  The elevated cottage is perfect for honeymooners, with a wonderful deck giving you the effect of being right within the trees.  This cottage can sleep 2-4 people and has a spiral staircase that leads you to the second level where the beds are.  The Sky tree house is for the adventure traveller and is about a 7-10 minute walk to get to.  It is very rugged and open, with no screen like the rest of the accommodation.  The stairs to the tree house are deadly but the view is amazing.  It is very tiny inside, with a single bed, and a mattress can be put on the floor for a second person.   There is no bathroom or running water.

After winding up and up on a very narrow dirt road, through many villages and the most amazing scenery imaginable, we reached a total gem called Ndali Lodge.  This was my favorite of all the places I have been to in Africa.  A gentleman named Aubry runs the lodge and it was actually his father’s property.  When Idi Amin came into power he threw everyone off their land but when Amin was no longer in power, locals were able to get their land back if they could prove it was theirs.  Aubry’s father had the proof and was able to go home.  The property is in the most beautiful location right on top of a hillside.  On one side from the pool you have stunning views of the lush green hillside and Rwenzori Mountains, and on the other side is an amazing crater lake surrounded by the valley.  If you have time you must do the walk with a guide who explains in great detail about the area and the people.  You can walk down to the water and take a boat out, if you like.

Ndali Lodge is located about 45 minutes from the Kibale Forest and has 8 cottages with solar heating.  The water supply comes directly from the Crater Lake 100m below.  The indoor bar/lounge area has wicker couches and tables, and connects to a small library and the dining room.  This is all under three thatched-roof huts that are all connected. The dining room has one big long table where everyone eats together.  I love this concept because it makes the Lodge so personal and open for communication.  There is very little electricity, with the whole camp lit by lanterns and candles.
 
The cottages are thatched roof with beautiful views of the Ruwenzories, which you can enjoy from your patio.  The rooms are very spacious with a high ceiling and four poster beds draped in mosquito nets and decorated with locally made crafts.  The en suite bathrooms have a bathtub and a separate shower.  There is one kerosene lamp in the room but there are candles. 

The grounds and garden are immaculate and very well taken care of, yet wild and organic in keeping with the natural surroundings.  I loved the garden swing overlooking the Crater Lake – such a peaceful place to relax in.  The patio off the dining room has an overhang with vine ceiling and grass in the middle of each joined cottage.  I only wish we had had more nights here instead of just one.

February 6

After an early morning breakfast of an omelet, bacon and fresh fruit we headed to the Kibale park headquarters to start our chimp trekking adventure.  In our group there was Steph and I and another couple who had done the walk the day before.  The couple decided to go on the walk again because they only saw the chimps from a distance.  Well, we were very lucky this day because the chimps were flying through the trees, all over the ground, and mating right in front of us.  As you walk through the thick dense forest, there is no path and you can hear the sounds of the chimps.  Our guide quietly said “they are this way” and we took off at full speed to catch up with the chimps.  Definitely wear long pants tucked into your socks and a long-sleeved shirt because some of the branches have thorns on them and they will cut you.  As I raced through the forest, my heart was beating so fast in anticipation of getting to see these amazing creatures.  Then there they were, swinging from the branches, eating, and some sitting on the ground.  There was a baby chimp in a tree sitting on a branch with the mom right beside him.  The baby would try to walk along the branch out of his mom’s grasp and the mom would pull the baby back as if to say “where are you going, you are too little to go by yourself, you could fall.”  For just over an hour we watched, mostly followed, and ran after the chimps – it was amazing! 

On our walk out of the forest our guide knew the Swahili Jambo song so the two of us sang it while what seemed like hundreds of butterflies (there are actually 144 species of butterflies in the park) flew around us – magical!!!  Since all the rangers were sitting around when we got back, I decided it would make a great picture, so in Steph and I went for a group shot.

The Kibale experience was about 3 hours and then we were off to Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP).  We had a packed lunch at the QENP headquarters where the path the Queen took was outlined.  The view from here is stunning, right on a hill overlooking the National Park.  Within a couple of hours the scenery went from green patchwork hills to the open savannah with the flat top Acacia trees.

After lunch we did a Kazinga Channel boat cruise.  I have been on boat cruises before in Africa so I really was not expecting much – boy was I surprised!  The boat cruise is a two hour journey where Lake Edward and Lake George join.  The boat takes you right along the riverbank for excellent views of a wide variety of animals and birds including a huge concentration of hippos, water buffalo, elephants, crocodiles etc.  Although we did not see any lions, our guide Joseph told us he has seen lions before.  I have never seen so many hippos in my life, in and out of the water.  There is a village on the other side of the water so a few kids were down at the water’s edge sitting on a boat waving at us.  This boat cruise is such a nice contrast to doing game drives in a vehicle.

After our boat cruise we headed up to Mweya Safari lodge, which overlooks the Kazinga Channel.  As soon as we pulled up to the lodge there was a family of warthog just feet away from us. The baby warthog was playing with the mom while she was eating. I find warthogs to be so ugly they are cute, eating on their knees and running with their tails straight up like they are always on some kind of a mission. 

Mweya Lodge was built in the fifties and in 1954 the Queen came for a visit.  In 1993 the lodge underwent a full renovation.  There are 48 rooms with all the modern amenities you want like telephones, en suite bathrooms, patios etc.  There is a TV room, gym, spa, and pool with beautiful view of the Kazinga channel.  The restaurant bar (with rock fireplace) and outside deck all view the channel.  Mweya Lodge does have a stunning location and if you want everything modern, this is the place to be.  I found it to be a bit impersonal but it is a big hotel so I would expect that. 

As an alternative to Mweya Lodge there is the beautiful Katara Lodge.  I loved this property, which was built in 2008.  Guests can do the Kazinga Chanel, stay overnight at Katara, and in the morning do the Chamburu Gorge chimpanzee trek before heading to Ishasha for more game-viewing.  Kibale Forest is about 3 hours away, the Chamburu Gorge is only 30 minutes away, and Ishasha is about 1hr 45 minutes.  You can also do game drives in QENP right from Katara Lodge, and a village walk.  To get to Katara you take a 2km dirt road (this is not the best of roads) through Katara village where you pass coffee beans drying on the side of the roads.  Most of the houses have flower boxes in front of them and some kind of a garden, and people are going about their daily lives.  This village is very different from the others I have seen so far.  This village seems to have a better income because the houses and property are nicer, and the standard of living seems to be better.

Katara is built right on a hillside with panoramic views of QENP; truly a stunning view.  The lodge offers accommodation in five luxurious, thatched cottages.  Each spacious cottage was hand crafted using locally available materials and carved into the hillside by the Katara village community. The cottages combine wooden floors, grass thatched roofs and canvas that can be folded away for uninterrupted views of the park stretching out below.  The bathrooms are luxuriously fitted with a claw foot bath, above-sink basins and separate rock showers.  The water is heated using solar thermal energy.  The four poster beds have mosquito netting and face the park.  I loved how they have iron hooks hanging from the ceiling so you can hang lanterns at night. 

The main bar and dining area is a large thatched structure, completely open to the western side, providing a beautiful view of the plains of Queen Elizabeth National Park, with the Rwenzori Mountains a stunning backdrop on a clear day.  The grounds are beautiful with manicured gardens around all the cottages and stone pathways leading to the rooms.  There is a fire pit built right on the side of the hill, where it would be great to have a sundowner and watch the sun set over the savannah.  The décor is perfectly African, with African canvas lanterns hanging everywhere and African fabric and motifs all over the property.

On this night we stayed at Jacana Lodge, which is situated on the edge of a crater lake.  We arrived right when the sun was going down, so we jumped out of the vehicle and the staff showed us the best place to watch the sun set.  I noticed there was a floating raft that could be taken out for dinner or sundowners.  The staff got it all ready for us, we grabbed some wine and away we went out on the water with the sun setting – it was wonderful!  Please note this is an optional extra excursion.

Jacana Lodge blends right into the wooded surroundings of the Maramaganbo forest.  This was the one place I noticed the insects.  It was nothing major but as soon as we opened our room door we had to immediately close it because the insects were a bit bad.  I only noticed this by our rooms, not in the dining area or anywhere else.  There are more insects here because you are right in the forest and by the water.  The rooms are like a log cabin and there are 12 of them.  They were built in 1998 with a recent renovation in 2006.  The rooms are very spacious with enclosed balconies overlooking the lake.  The walls, ceiling, floor, bed, tables etc. are all made out of wood.  There is mosquito netting over the beds and a table with lights and a flash light is provided.  Electricity is from 6-8am, 2-2:30pm and 6-10:30pm.  All the windows have screens, not glass, and I noticed a lot of electrical plugs for charging batteries or using hairdryers.  The bathroom has a lovely shower with rocks and a wood board that you stand on. 

The dining area overlooks the lake and is all wood with wood railings.  There is a bar area with a nice, rock fireplace with chairs and a hammock to lounge in.  The pool is lovely, right on the lake, with lounge chairs and a hammock.  Massage and a sauna are offered along with canoes, village/forest/crater walks, bat caves, fishing, and a cultural walk.  That night we fell asleep to the sound of frogs and crickets and we woke up to the sound of hippos.

February 7

In the morning we decided to sleep in a bit and have a leisurely breakfast before heading out on a 3 hour cultural walk to Hekunegu village.  This turned out to be the highlight of my trip.  Today was Saturday and it was the busiest day of the week.  Once a week the village people can collect firewood, so this – along with bringing in the fish – was what everyone was doing.  There was no school this day so all the kids were home.  As our lodge guide Richard walked with us down the road we ran into everyone going about their daily lives.  I was surprised that most people do not speak English so Richard had to translate everything.  Some people knew a bit of Swahili so I could communicate a bit that way. 

We noticed some women collecting firewood so we decided to stop and talk to them, and they ended up walking with us for a good 45 minutes just talking about families, children and life in Africa.  These women had travelled miles just to collect the firewood.  As we walked with them they had their piles of firewood balanced on their heads and fish in their hands.  It was a very surreal moment for me, watching these women who walk miles to get wood and fish, till the ground and look after all the children and their homes.  These are very strong women who do this all themselves while most of the men are gone all day working.

A man pushing his bike with a basket full of fish came up and walked with us and the ladies.  He was so interested in us because the ladies, Steph and I were laughing so hard and making jokes, he wanted to join in.  We all took pictures together and by then word had spread up ahead that we were coming.  We stopped amongst the banana plantations to find a lady sitting with the kids and talked to her for a while, telling her where we were from and talking about my boys who were back home.  As we kept walking we could not help but notice the beautiful scenery of the little mud huts and farm lands and the green hills.  This is Africa, and this is why I love Africa so much.

We ventured down to a home with three huts where the grandmother, Rhoda, lived with her daughter and family.  The daughter was washing clothes and the kids in torn t-shirts, that were ten sizes too big, were running around playing.  We continued on to Josephine’s family, who I fell in love with.  Josephine lives with her two sons and their families.  They live in little mud huts with their colourful laundry hanging to dry against the brown, which was a beautiful sight.  Josephine was so proud of her family and brought them all out to meet us.  As we talked about Canada and my boys, her daughter-in-law was feeding her baby.  We talked about greetings in Canada and I told Josephine that to our family and friends we hug hello and good-bye.  When I left I gave her a big hug and everyone started laughing and clapping, and Josephine was thrilled.  Everyone we met along the way we greeted and shook hands with. People were so friendly and happy and interested in meeting us.

We finally got to the main village and all we could see were kids running around everywhere.  Most women we talked to had 6-7 children.  We met one of the local men who were sitting eating.  He was so friendly, asking us to join him and the other adults around the fire for tea.  By now the kids were bursting with excitement and following us everywhere.  Some were taking our hands as we walked, which was really special.  This village was very well organized with a store, cotton weighing and storage centre, a fresh water well, and people even had cell phones.  A lady with 7 children had her kids all lined up cutting their toenails.  The kids loved me taking their pictures and showing them to them afterwards, at which they would laugh hysterically. 

What I loved about this village walk is that not very many tourists have done it, so it is very authentic.  Some of the little children had not even seen white people before, some were scared and some very curious.  One little girl would not smile at me or anything, just stare at me, and every so often I would notice her rub my arm and then she would quickly run away, and come back and do it again. 

After our village walk we had lunch back at the Lodge and headed to Ishasha Wilderness Tented Camp.  This exclusive tented camp offers quality tented accommodation in this unspoiled, remote, southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  Ishasha, famous for its tree climbing lions, also offers excellent game viewing including large herds of buffalo, elephant, kob, topi and other species of antelope.  The location is midway between Mweya area of QENP and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. This is a great place to spend a couple of nights before heading to visit the gorillas.

Dave and Karen run the camp, which consists of 10 luxury tents facing the Ntungwe River.  The tents are very spacious, each with its own en suite bathroom and dressing area with hot water “bush” style, meaning you have to order the water because it is a bucket shower.  The toilets are eco friendly; however there are three flush toilets that everyone shares.  These toilets have an open front and you look right out into the bush.  The tents have a canvas floor, are run by solar power, have a safe, and a wardrobe area with hangers for clothes.

The dining area is under canvas as well, but the tables can be brought out into the open where you can eat listening to the sounds of the water.  There is a sitting area with comfy couches under canvas.  I particularly enjoyed sitting by the fire at night drinking a glass of wine and watching the sun go down.

February 8

While eating breakfast Steph looked out at the river and noticed an elephant right at camp.  I grabbed my camera and we watched the elephant, which had just come out of the water.  After breakfast we went on a game drive through the Ishasha Park.  Dave was telling us that the lions had been hiding lately and we never did get to see them.  We did, however, watch kob trying to mate.  The females wanted nothing to do with the males but those males just kept trying and trying, which was fascinating to watch.

We went back for lunch and then went out again on a game drive.  We stopped and got out of the vehicle for sundowners, consisting of gins and tonic and beer.  As we had our drinks the kob were grazing beside us – what a nice way to end our stay at Ishasha.

February 9

This morning we set off for Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.  I was feeling very excited to gorilla trek and a bit worried because of the possibility of hiking up to 6 hours to find the gorillas.  The drive is so beautiful and we climbed up from the plains of QENP to the mountain side.  We arrived in Bwindi and my breath was taken away by the thick dense forest that, by the way, goes straight up!  I was getting a bit nervous thinking about the hike the following day.  Joseph said we should hire a porter for US$15.00, who would carry my backpack full of water and lunch.  The porter will also push and pull you up the mountainside, if you need it.

We arrived at Buhoma Lodge, which has 8 rooms all built up along a mountainside with outstanding views of the forest.  Everything in Bwindi is a climb because everything is built on a mountainside.  Our room, I think, was the highest one and what a “stairmaster” to climb but well worth it because of the uninterrupted view of the forest.  The rooms have a deck so we sat out at night and each morning with our tea, and watched the forest.  This night we sat out and wondered how the heck we were going to trek for 6 hours without dying.

Each cottage has large windows fully netted, with comfortable beds and en suite bathrooms.  The bathrooms are spacious with flushing toilets and a shower.  Lighting is by solar power and at the lounge/bar/dining area there are fireplaces.  The nights can get cool, so warmer dress is a good idea.  One nice touch is that when you get into bed at night there are bed warmers in your covers.  Laundry is complimentary here but because you are in a rain forest the laundry does not dry very quickly.   There are safes in every room and if you want to charge batteries it can be done at Reception.

This afternoon we went on a village walk, which was about 3-4 hours.  After coming from our Jacana village walk, which was amazing and not touristy in the least, I was a little leery about this walk since it has been in effect for, I think, around 10 years.  Our local guide was very informative and we walked through the farms, up the mountain side through a most stunning view of a stream with old wooden bridges, and towering trees with vines hanging in every direction.  It was absolutely magical and I really felt like I was in a different world. 

On the walk we found out about the process of rum making, and visited a witch doctor who uses traditional healing methods from the plants that are located throughout the forest.   We climbed up the hill, making our way through all different types of flora, to a little hut where the witch doctor lives.  Inside was a table full of plants and a mortar and pestle where the herbs and plants are ground up.  The first thing I noticed was a big poster with all the African leaders on it, including a picture of President Obama, whose pictures, by the way, are everywhere in Uganda.  We saw locals with his book; posters of him everywhere and the locals are very excited about him being President.  The witch doctor did not speak English so our guide translated everything for us.  It was fascinating learning how our environment can heal us.

After this visit we walked though the plantations where tiny houses are hidden away and the sounds of children laughing and playing could be heard.  I heard the most beautiful sound of a women singing and had to find out where it was coming from.  I peeked around a corner and there was a mother singing to a small baby in her arms with the children playing in the dirt – so precious.

Amongst the plantations, four children came running out to the path to see us and the little boy picked up his brother and held him in his arms for a picture, while the two girls smiled.  The kids giggled so hard and ran off through the plantation yelling and laughing to their mom, about us.  I love these moments.

We made our way to a school that is very well organized and a big soccer tournament was going on.  The money you pay for the village walk goes right into the community and the school and hospital really benefit from it.  Since we had been to two schools now, we just walked by and headed to watch the pygmies perform.  I had a different image in my head of what pygmies look like – very short, I thought – but these were not short at all.  The reason for this is because they have married non-pygmies, so their children are built more traditionally like regular African people.  They did a dance with music and singing and had me come in and dance with the children.  After that they showed us how to make fire by rubbing sticks together.  The whole thing was just a little too staged for my liking and what I did not care for was that at each part of the walk we were expected to give a tip.  Later I found out that we are not supposed to tip, but since people have done so in the past, it has become expected.  All in all, the walk was great and very informative about daily life, and I think clients would really enjoy it.

February 10

I woke up this morning excited and anxious about doing the gorilla trek. I was nervous about not being able to trek in the forest straight up hill for hours on end, but I thought if I paced myself all would be good.  You should wear long sleeves and long pants with hiking boots.  Tuck your socks into your pants and in your day pack bring antiseptic and bandages in case the needles scratch you.  It rains a bit in Bwindi so the forest floor is slippery.  You are not hiking on a path so the leaves and brush are very slippery, hence good traction shoes are a must.

After a briefing Steph and I were put in the “R” group, in which there was a total of 8.  We decided to hire a porter.    I grabbed my walking stick and we set out.  Our guide had a radio with him and was in contact with other guides who went up ahead earlier that morning to find the gorillas.  We walked for about two minutes and our guide was showing us the various plants.  We headed out again and two minutes later he stopped to explain about more plants.  I was thinking that it’s no wonder it takes 6 hours to find the gorillas if they pace you this slowly.  We had been walking about 10 minutes and the guide said to everybody “there they are.”  I was amazed – 10 minutes and we had found the gorillas!

Once you find the gorillas you have one hour with them.  Some groups are lucky and the gorillas literally just sit there eating and playing.  Our group was on the go for most of the time.  Right off the start the Silverback climbed down from the trees and walked right past us.  My heart nearly stopped and I was in awe of the whole situation. I was sitting in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest surrounded by gorillas and thinking, “I have the best job in the world”! 

At one point, two gorillas were on a log and started play fighting.  Another two gorillas were joined in a hug, and rubbing noses or kissing one another.  The hour went so fast and as we were getting up to leave, one of the gorillas got up and walked a foot away from Steph, and then rubbed up against a lady in our group.

We must have walked a bit through the forest but I really did not notice how far we had gone because it took us a good hour or longer to get back onto the road.  Once we got out of the forest we followed a cleared path and saw absolutely stunning views of the forest and mountains.  At one point I was on top of a hill just looking out into a very beautiful valley.

Since we were back early from trekking I then did 4 sight inspections.

Mantana Engagi Lodge: located just outside the Bwindi park gate.  This property was built in 2008 and has 8 cottages.  The view of the forest is just amazing and very close.  I loved the open lounge area with the wood deck with stone wall, with the chairs to watch the forest.  I found the rooms to be nice and cozy but the beds and furniture were a bit bulky, which made the rooms seem small.  The camp is solar power with a backup generator.

Volcanoes Lodge (Bwindi Lodge): The lounge and dining area is nice with a fantastic view of the forest.  For dining everyone eats at one big table together.  The lounge area has a fireplace and wicker furniture and the dining area extends to an open terrace with wicker furniture and wood flooring.  The only downside to this property is the toilets.  There is a drop toilet and beside you is a container with sand that you put in the hole after you use it.  Not too many people would enjoy this.  The plan is that in 2010 they will have flush toilets.  There is no tap water – a jug is filled in the morning and evening.  There are bucket showers and you have to order the water.  I loved the huge, open, flat stone deck with chairs that looks right at the mountains.  This place is not for those who enjoy luxury.

Gorilla Resort: located just outside the Bwindi park gate, was built in late 2006 and has 7 rooms.  The view is beautiful of the forest, but I found the lounge/dining area a bit small.  The tents have no furniture, no tables, lamps, just very plain but clean.  The bathroom is actually nice and spacious with a claw foot tub and cement floor.  I would have thought this place was for more budget clients but I guess this place is more expensive than Buhoma Lodge, and I would much rather stay at Buhoma.

Gorilla Forest Camp in Bwindi:  This is a luxury tented camp with 8 tents.  This property is probably the nicest in Bwindi; however the only downside is that you cannot see the forest from here, as the brush in front of the lodge is too thick.  From the dining area you can see the top of the forest but not a full view.  All the other properties I visited had an uninterrupted view of the forest. I am not sure how people who can’t climb stairs  would get to this camp because you climb A LOT of stairs from the main road to get to the camp. 

The camp was built in 2001 but has strong upkeep and maintenance.  The tents actually have canvas sides and tops but there is no zipper – there is a locking door built into the tent.  The en suite bathroom is a separate building attached to the tent.  Bathrobes are provided, a toilet/sink/stone shower in one room, and a bathtub with candles facing outside in a separate room.

After our sight inspections we did a 3 hour waterfall walk.  If you have to trek for hours to see the gorillas, the waterfall walk probably should be done on a different day.  The water from this waterfall actually ends up in the Nile in Egypt.  This walk was amazing and a must do.  I seriously felt like I was in Lord of the Rings because the forest was so magical.  It felt like pixies and mythical creatures lived there.  Beautiful wooden bridges that you had to cross were throughout the forest and huge trees with vines intertwining everywhere.  There are three different viewing areas of the Falls, with the last being a bit of a climb to get to.  The walk is not difficult because you follow a fairly worn down path.

February 11

This morning we headed for Lake Mburo.  The park is composed primarily of grassland, wetland, and acacia woodland habitats.  At the centre of the park lies Lake Mburo.  The park has topi, eland, kilspringer, zebra, buffalo, oribi, sitatunga, leopard and an excellent variety of birds. 

When we entered the park the first thing we spotted was a herd of zebra stampeding through the bush – what a fantastic thundering sound!  We headed over to Mantana Lake Mburo Camp for a sight inspection.  This camp was built in 1998 but renovated in 2006.  In the plans is another renovation that may include flush toilets, changing the beds, adding a pool, and changing the roofs from canvas to thatched roofing.  There are 10 tents all with views of the lake.  In front of the tents is a hammock plus wicker furniture.  The tents are built on a wooden elevated platform and are full canvas.  There are no lights, no end tables, and very little room.  The en suite bathroom is very simple with a bucket shower and drop toilet that you have to put sand into when you are finished.  I think if the camp can get the upgrades done, the place will be a bit more desirable.

Our camp for the night in Mihingo Lodge – and what a gem – was absolutely wonderful.  This and Ndali Lodge are by far my favorite camps.  The lodge was built in 2007 right on top of a hillside in and around bedrock, with amazing views of the park and a watering hole.  There are 10 rooms. I stayed in the Lake Katara room, which had a huge bolder right in front of the room that you can sit on right over the escarpment.  I loved how this place put thought into décor and little personal touches.  For example, while having dinner, there are blankets on the backs of the chairs in case you get cold.  Throughout the dining and lounge area there is iron artwork of people.  The lounge and bar are very inviting and look out to the infinity pool where there are sun chairs for relaxing.  Beside the bar is a fire pit with camp chairs.  At night they have a bush baby feeding.

The rooms are very well done.  You walk into your room that looks like a hut with thatched roof from the outside.  There is a hallway that leads to a bathroom with a shower and separate area for the toilet.  The bedroom is actually canvas walls with wood floor, end tables and a desk.  Past the beds is a deck with chairs and a table for you to sit and look out at endless plains.  The doorways are curved with natural wood molding.  Soft cream colors with wood furniture and red curtains really make the room pop.

February 12

Before sunrise we met with the camp managers and they took us to the horse stables.  This is a very new thing and the men at the stables are going to be trained in bird and animal guiding.  We arrived at the stables and the horses were all ready for us.  The horses actually came from the Nairobi race track.  Right at sunrise we headed out for about a 1.5 hour ride.  Absolutely amazing, except for the crazy “safari helmets” we had to wear that felt like a bucket on my head.  The best thing is you are right in and amongst the game.  Literally right beside us two zebra were mating and we sat on our horses watching them.  You do not get to do that every day.  I would highly recommend it if you have the time to do this optional extra activity, as it is a nice contrast from being in a vehicle where you have to stay on the main road at all times.

Next we were headed back to Entebbe.  En route we stopped at the equator for some pictures and at a fruit market along the side of the road.  All the fruit is displayed so nicely, piled up and colourful.  We did some shopping at the equator where we stopped for lunch and continued on to Entebbe.

We went to the boat launch for our journey to Ngamba Island where our last night was spent.  I would recommend that if clients want to spend the night, to do it at the beginning of their trip.  Most people like to have their last night with a bit of luxury to clean up and pack before catching their flight.  When staying at the island you are just allowed to bring a day pack.  Ngamba Island does not have running water in the tents but water is brought to the tents.  The shower is a bucket shower so the staff bring water when you are ready.  The tents face Lake Victoria and are big with nice comfortable beds.  The deck is wonderful to sit out on and watch the sun set/rise.  My favorite was watching all the fishermen at night.  The lake is covered in lanterns at night because the light attracts the silver fish.  The fishermen all go out in their boats in the dark to catch the fish.

The en suite bathroom has chemical toilets but there is a better toilet behind all the tents that everyone staying there can share.  The food was wonderful and the staff great.  At night we could hear the water crashing against the shore, the birds going nuts and every once in a while, the chimps.  Right after dinner a fire was lit and we sat around the fire before turning in.  This was the first time we were able to see an African starry night.  If you have never seen one, it is absolutely beautiful with the entire sky completely covered in millions of stars.

February 13

This morning we took the boat back to Entebbe for some last minute sight inspections.

Boma Guesthouse:  The Boma is run by an English family and has absolutely beautiful, manicured English gardens, and is gated.  The lounge and bar with a TV is inside, and the dining area is outside under cover and faces the garden.  There are a total of 11 rooms with 3 and 2 guestrooms attached together.  Renovations are going on right now for 3 more rooms and a pool, which will be done in July.  The Boma is a great alternative to the Lake Victoria Hotel, but I found the rooms and bathroom to be "hospital like."  They need a bit of colour; they are much too white, with white walls and white towels.  A splash of colour or something on the walls would make all the difference.  For people that want a more "homey" feel, I would put them here. If they want a hotel, then the Lake Victoria Hotel would be best.

Gately Guesthouse:  The Gately is by far my favorite place in Entebbe, built in 2008.  It has 6 cottages and 3 extra rooms in the main building.  Each cottage has 2 rooms – 1 double and 1 twin room.  The place has so much character and is very "African" in decor, which is exactly what I look for when choosing a place to stay.  There are splashes of colour on a wall, straw mats and baskets, iron rod curtains with animal print curtains and bedspreads.  There is a small, flat screen TV in the room, with a fan desk and chair. The bathroom has a sunken rock shower.  The huge downside to this property is the location, which is right on a main road.  The area is fully gated with a security guard but the noise of the traffic could be a bit much for some clients.  I personally would still prefer to stay here over the other hotels I saw.  If I can handle the traffic noise of Cairo, I can handle the noise of the small town of Entebbe.

Joseph took us for lunch at Gorettie’s, which makes really great pizza.  The location is right on Lake Victoria and you can sit outside looking out at the sand and water.  This was a perfect way to end our last few hours.

Joseph took us to the airport and we said our goodbyes.  I was completely dreading flying home and leaving Uganda because I fell in love with this country and its people.  I know I will definitely be back and someday will have a house built right on top of a hill overlooking the crater lakes and the Rwenzori Mountains.

If you are interested in a quote for the itinerary I did please feel free to contact either your agent or me directly at 1-800-991-6111.

Melissa Kooijman
Wild Africa Safari