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These ancient mammals roam in large herds over
much of Sub Saharan Africa. Buffalo - fully 1700 lbs when
grown are reputed to be one of the most dangerous animals
found in Africa. For much of their lives Cape Buffalo travel
in herds - sometimes small groups, other times groups of a
many hundreds may be seen together - male, female, young and
old. Their days are spent mostly foraging for food, moving
to and from water sources and tending their young. Occasionally
small bachelor herds may break off from the larger group returning
only at the time of the rut.
Where we were traveling, Chobe National Park
in northern Botswana, boasts large numbers. On another occasion
when traveling with two friends in this same area, we were
caught in the middle of a vast herd moving towards the Chobe
River. I imagine we waited there for probably close to 45
minutes as the herd moved past us, both in front and in back,
of the vehicle - all sizes, all ages. By this time I had learned
that quiet and respect was the best way to deal with these
amazing animals so I was happy to wait until they had passed
by.
On the morning in question we started out at
about 5 am, as the waking hours often offer some of the best
game and bird viewing, plus the temperatures are kind - before
the end of the day the thermometer would reach a rousing 42
! Prior to meeting up with the Cape Buffalo we had the privilege
and pleasure of seeing elephants - including a practically
new born babe and it's mom, impala - the graceful, delicate
antelopes found in many of the savannah like areas of Africa,
lilac crested rollers, Egyptian geese, crocodiles and even
lion - a strong, stealthy lioness and her bold, big male mate
out in search of breakfast.
Initially we almost missed seeing the Buff
- he was lying just off the track we were driving along, tucked
into the cool of the bushes. One of the women I was traveling
with noticed him. As we always did when we came upon animals
we stopped. Our driver-guide, and host, Patrick Penstone,
explained to us that this is done out of consideration for
the animals and the environment plus the awful noise of an
engine disrupts the amazing sounds of the African morning.
Patrick, like a character out of a Hemingway novel with his
certain maleness and slightly gruff manner knows an amazing
amount about the bush and its wealth of flora and fauna, told
us that buffalo, when they are old, or infirm, are ostracized
by the herd and left to fend for themselves until they die.
Africa provides many ready reminders that whether we, in our
"civilized" world of health care and vitamin supplements,
realize it or not there is a natural order of things and that,
in time, every living creature will pass from the earth.
As we watched the buffalo I was sitting in
the back row of our open land rover - closest to the buffalo.
Linda, a fellow Canadian, was sitting directly in front of
me. We had watched this great beast quietly for about ten
minutes or so - taking photos, discussing his size, and learning
about him from Patrick. It was about this point that Linda
said, "Well he looks like he is settled in for the day"
to which we laughed and agreed that's what it looked like.
And it was also at this precise moment that the buffalo struggled
his great weight to his feet and turned to walk away from
us or so it looked. Then it happened in a split second - he
took a look over his massive shoulder and was on us in a flash.
All I remember seeing was these huge brown eyes - I'm sure
now they had a slightly deranged gleam to them - and massive
horns coming directly at us. He charged straight at the jeep,
head held high - never losing sight of us - and then he hit,
jolting us straight into paying attention, then he backed
up and charged us again - by now Linda and I are sitting on
our neighbor's laps, and Patrick was trying desperately to
get the engine started. Fortunately the motor caught and we
were able to pull ahead before he could come at us again.
We pulled up a little ways ahead and stopped
and waited for our other vehicle, who were some ways behind
us and had not seen what had happened to us. Also the buffalo
did not chase after us but he did wait just off to the side
of the road - I'd swear that he knew there was another vehicle
coming. And sure enough when the vehicle came into view -
Patrick was waving the other driver, Betta, to move along
- the Buffalo again charged the truck. We actually saw the
vehicle lift off the ground when he hit it and as Betta did
his best to hurry past. it appeared to us, from looking back
at the buffalo, that he was likely injured and was in no shape
to give chase so we carried on back to camp.
As so often is the way when man gets into a
tussle with nature - nature loses out - the buffalo was reported
to the authorities and we learned that later that day the
old fellow was put down - but he did not die without a fight.
It took 6 shots from a .375 to take the final life out of
him.
Once back in camp Patrick told us that had
the Cape Buffalo had a third opportunity to hit the jeep he
might well have tipped us over as the strength of these animals
is immense!. We also found out when we returned to our camp
site that the buff had actually put his horn through the metal
of our jeep and left a hole just below where I was sitting!
And on the other vehicle some of the horn from the Buffalo's
great "bosses" was lodged under a piece of metal
on the vehicle. Small souvenirs of our adventure.
Our adrenaline was pumping and we were grateful
that the situation had not been worse. No one was hurt just
very shaken up. My hat was off to Patrick and Betta of Penstone
Safaris for how they handled the group of very upset, and
very excited, travelers. When traveling in Africa a solid
guide with experience and knowledge can be a very necessary
and very welcome person.
This was the morning we truly came face to
face with what Africa can offer - a true wilderness encounter
and we were reminded that these are wild animals with their
own view of the world. While in Botswana we had both the opportunity
to camp and to stay in a luxurious hotel on the shores of
the Chobe River. The camping was definitely the rougher way
to travel - it was hot, there are bugs, and indeed, you might
come close to the animals but, for me, this was by far the
most scary and the most exhilarating part of my time in Botswana.
The close encounter that we still talk about.
Melissa Tharp
November 25, 1996
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